On January 16, 2021, a ten-person Nepali team reached the summit of K2, completing the mountain’s first winter ascent. A separate summit push ended in tragedy: Sajid Sadpara turned back when his respirator failed, while his father Ali Sadpara, John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Juan Pablo Mohr continued and did not return. Richard Godwin’s 2026 feature reports five climber deaths connected with the expedition. The Last First: Winter K2, directed by Amir Bar-Lev, tells the story of that season and premiered on Apple TV on October 2, 2026.
What happened on K2 in winter 2021?
K2, at 8,611 metres (28,251 feet), was the last of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks to be climbed in winter. The 2020–21 expedition brought together Nepali climbers, international mountaineers, commercial clients and support teams. The season’s historic achievement and its deaths unfolded amid difficult logistics and severe hazards high on the mountain.
Richard Godwin’s feature reports that ten Nepali climbers reached the summit at about 5:40 p.m. local time on January 16, 2021, making the first winter ascent. The timing and team size are reported by the feature; they are not presented here as independently checked against an expedition log.
The expedition also included a later summit attempt by Ali Sadpara, his son Sajid, John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Juan Pablo Mohr. Near the Bottleneck, Sajid’s respirator failed and he turned back. The other three continued toward the summit and did not return.
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Who died during the expedition?
The feature describes five climber deaths connected with the expedition. Sergi Mingote fell to his death while descending from Camp 1, and Atanas Skatov fell during the descent from Camp 3. Ali Sadpara, John Snorri and Juan Pablo Mohr were lost after continuing on the summit push. Sajid survived after turning back.
Colin O’Brady described the toll as five climbers in Godwin’s feature. The incident sequence and death toll here follow that reporting; the sources reviewed do not include an independent accident investigation establishing a definitive causal account or allocation of responsibility.
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Why was the route so dangerous?
The route described in the feature follows the Abruzzi Ridge, including the Black Pyramid and the Bottleneck. At the Bottleneck, climbers pass beneath an unstable serac—a large mass of glacial ice that can collapse. O’Brady called it the only route to the summit and said: “In any other circumstance, on any other mountain, you would look at that and say, ‘We have to find another way,’”
Godwin’s feature describes rockfall, intense cold and limited winter daylight as compounding the route’s objective dangers. It contrasts roughly 14 hours of summer daylight with about five in winter and reports summit temperatures that could reach −70°C. These are conditions and figures stated in the feature, not independently verified measurements.
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How did expedition logistics and commercial climbing shape the story?
The feature describes a crowded Camp 3 where there were not enough tents after climbers arrived expecting some might have survived high winds. It reports that some climbers shared tents, while Bernhard Lippert spent the night outside and later lost his toes to frostbite. These accounts illustrate the consequences of strained high-altitude logistics, but do not by themselves establish negligence.
Seven Summit Treks supplied logistics and offered a “K2 Winter” package, according to the feature. Participants raised concerns about preparedness, planning and expedition decisions. Those criticisms are testimony and interpretation, not a settled finding that commercial climbing caused the deaths.
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The expedition also carried competing ambitions: elite mountaineering, commercial participation, national recognition and the visibility that comes with documenting a historic attempt. The film’s director, Amir Bar-Lev, described his approach this way: “I thought of this film as a kind of science-fiction story.” O’Brady, by contrast, said he was reluctant to assign blame. Their comments frame the human story without resolving disputed responsibility.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What is The Last First: Winter K2 about?
Directed by Amir Bar-Lev, The Last First: Winter K2 follows the 2021 expedition, focusing on John Snorri, Ali Sadpara and Sajid Sadpara amid the Nepali climbing team, commercial clients and film crews. Apple TV Press announced the film’s global premiere on October 2, 2026; Apple’s listing gives a runtime of 1 hour 37 minutes. Availability may vary by territory.
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The documentary’s story is not simply a contest over who could reach the summit. It places the first winter ascent alongside the losses, logistical pressures and personal choices that defined the season. Sajid Sadpara’s words about his father capture one dimension of that loss: “But my father loved the mountains. He is in the mountains and he will stay there.”
Another climber, Magdalena Gorzkowska, offered a sharper criticism of the expedition’s decision-making: “Everyone is to blame. You need to research. You need to ask questions. We were trusting too much the agency.” Her assessment is her own perspective, not an official conclusion about responsibility.
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