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The standout looks from Milan Fashion Week in September 2024 came from the womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 collections: Prada’s strange mix of mirrored shine and outerwear, Bottega Veneta’s playful dress-up, and Marni’s sculptural cotton tailoring were among the most distinctive. “Best” here means a curated selection, not an official ranking. The season label is Spring/Summer 2025 because the shows presented that September were for the following spring and summer.
What stood out at Milan Fashion Week 2024?
Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Marni offered three sharply different answers to what a memorable runway look could be: visual contradiction, playful character, and controlled shape. Other collections explored soft tailoring, historical references, metallic surfaces, and theatrical details. These are motifs across selected shows, not a single uniform trend.
Vogue’s preview of the Milan SS25 schedule listed 57 shows and 69 presentations. Those are schedule counts, not attendance figures or an official industry-body tally. Giorgio Armani showed in New York for the season, while Tom Ford held a presentation rather than a runway show. Vogue’s schedule preview explains the context.
Prada: futuristic shine against everyday layers
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons made variety itself part of the collection’s effect. Parkas over silver mirrored gowns set practical outerwear against a reflective, almost science-fiction surface. Perforated skirts, clashing textures, embellishment, unusual hats, and bug-eyed eyewear extended the collection’s surreal, retro-futuristic vocabulary. Rather than one silhouette or motif repeated down the runway, the looks shifted character from one outfit to the next.
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Prada framed that approach around a present shaped by individualized streams of information. Miuccia Prada said: “Today is a period of endless information, driven by algorithms where each person sees their own version of the present, their own reality curated for them. We wanted not to critique but to engage with this idea, to open a dialogue inspired by our cultural moment.” See Vogue’s Milan SS25 takeaways and its Prada collection coverage.
Bottega Veneta: clothes with a sense of play
Matthieu Blazy’s collection drew on childhood wonder and dress-up rather than polish for its own sake. Oversized tailoring and crumpled or deliberately pre-wrinkled layers made the clothes feel handled and lived in; playful character cues and everyday bags kept the styling grounded. Whimsical animal-shaped seating reinforced the collection’s childlike setting, but the clothes’ appeal lay in the contrast between considered construction and an unbuttoned, imaginative mood. Vogue’s takeaways, Vogue’s collection coverage, and The Guardian’s Milan review describe the collection’s playful direction.
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Marni: sculptural shapes in cotton
Francesco Risso’s Marni collection made cotton feel far from plain. Sharp fitted suiting and patterned day dresses sat alongside textured gowns; other reported details included oversized tuxedos, capelet-like cropped chemises, cut-out rose appliqué, and sailor-cap references. The appeal was in the mix of familiar garments and unexpected proportions or decoration. Vogue described the collection as 100 per cent cotton, a material detail rather than a sustainability rating. Vogue’s season takeaways, Vogue’s Marni coverage, and British Vogue’s highlights cover the collection. Vogue also reported 8.9 per cent growth for Marni in 2023 compared with other OTB brands; that is a company-reported figure for 2023, not a result for 2024.
More memorable collections from the Milan shows
Emporio Armani: relaxed tailoring in soft colors
Under the title “Future Perfect,” Emporio Armani paired fluid trousers and soft jackets with relaxed tailoring and linen jumpsuits. Sage and lavender gave the collection a quieter palette, while ties worn playfully softened the formality. The Guardian’s review and AP’s coverage describe the collection.
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Jil Sander: iridescence and precise details
Jil Sander worked with contrasts in surface and finish: iridescent wool tailoring, degraded silk dresses, chinoiserie-inspired shifts, floral details, bejewelled collars, and leather baseball T-shirts. The combination made restrained shapes feel more expressive without relying on a single repeated embellishment. The Guardian reports these details.
Max Mara: draping and crisp structure
Max Mara set precision against drape. Crisp white shirts and long jackets provided clean lines, while cut-outs and origami-like folds changed the surface and shape. The result was less about spectacle than about how tailoring could hold or release volume. The Guardian and AP discuss the collection.
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Gucci: Riviera references and archival touches
Gucci’s seaside separates, archival headscarves, and bright raffia coat brought a Riviera mood into the season. The references ranged across the 1960s and 1970s and later decades, making the collection feel like a layered recollection rather than a strict period revival. British Vogue and The Guardian cover the looks.
Versace: casual styling with theatrical accessories
Versace brought a joyful, casual styling idea together with conspicuous runway objects: a 3D-printed gold dress, perfume-bottle-shaped heels, and floral brooches made from recycled bottles and cigarette butts. The Guardian reported the brooch materials; that design detail does not establish a quantified environmental benefit. Zig-zag knits and floral prints added more accessible visual cues. The Guardian and British Vogue report on the collection.
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Ferragamo: ballet references without a costume effect
Maximilian Davis drew on ballet through leggings, leotards, ribboned pumps, and wrapped tops. These details brought the discipline’s lines and dress codes into the collection while keeping the reference legible in separates. British Vogue’s highlights describe the ballet influence.
Fendi: a century of references
Kim Jones’s first womenswear season for Fendi arrived in the house’s centennial year and drew on a broad archive, from 1920s dresses to 1990s Baguette bags. The range of references made the collection feel like a conversation across eras rather than a single nostalgic quotation. British Vogue covers the collection.
Tod’s: craft and clean lines
Tod’s emphasized clean cuts, lightweight cotton and leather, and Italian craftsmanship. Compared with the more theatrical collections, its strongest impression came from the clarity of the shapes and the materials. The Guardian’s review describes the show.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What connected the standout looks?
The collections did not converge on a single silhouette. Instead, their strongest looks made contrasts visible: Prada put mirrored gowns beneath parkas; Bottega made oversized and crumpled styling feel playful; Marni gave cotton sculptural proportions; and Armani softened tailoring with fluid trousers and relaxed color. Across selected shows, futuristic eyewear, metallic surfaces, throwback references, playful scale, and softer tailoring appeared as distinct design choices—not evidence of a consensus trend.
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