Chappell Roan’s custom Jazz Age-inspired look for her Saturday Night Live appearance was designed by Gunnar Deatherage with stylist Genesis Webb. Deatherage reported that it took a full month of 18-hour days—more than 500 hours—and featured dragonfly wings embellished with over 1,000 chartreuse crystals.
Who designed the look, and what inspired it?
Deatherage created the outfit in collaboration with Webb, Roan’s stylist. The design drew on vintage photographs of performers at Paris’s Casino de Paris, including imagery associated with Josephine Baker’s era. Deatherage said the photographs’ palette, shapes and theatrical character informed the look. Yahoo-hosted WWD coverage describes the result as a dance costume paired with an exaggerated hat and sculptural dragonfly wings.
How were the wings and other details made?
According to Deatherage, the wings were shaped from thick foam, sewn together, attached to a hand-painted leather belt and decorated with more than 1,000 chartreuse crystals. He described the process this way: “The dragonfly wings were sculpted from layers of thick foam, and then sewn together and mounted to a hand-painted leather belt and embellished with over a thousand chartreuse crystals.”
The embellishment extended beyond the wings. Reporting also describes a waist garland with hand-pressed vintage brass figures, gold braided trim and hand-dyed wool socks finished with glass-beaded trim. Together, those details helped give the outfit its ornate, stage-costume character.
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How long did the outfit take to make?
Deatherage reported that the work took a full month of 18-hour days, amounting to more than 500 hours. He called it “an incredible labor of love.” This is the designer’s reported estimate, not independently audited labor data; the precise method used to count the hours has not been stated. The November 2024 report quoting Deatherage is the basis for the construction and time figures.
Was this the outfit Roan wore during her live SNL performances?
No. Roan made her SNL debut as musical guest on November 2, 2024, but Vogue’s account of the two live performances describes different costumes: a Bride of Frankenstein-inspired look for “Pink Pony Club” and a gingham two-piece for “The Giver.” Vogue’s November 3, 2024 coverage documents those on-air looks. The Jazz Age ensemble is separately associated with the appearance in fashion reporting and promotional imagery; it should not be mistaken for either live-performance costume.
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