The costumes in Emily in Paris are character storytelling, not a guide to how Parisians or Romans generally dress. Costume designer Marylin Fitoussi builds the show’s fashion fantasy from vivid colors, mixed prints and changing silhouettes that track Emily’s confidence, circumstances and surroundings.
Who is the costume designer for Emily in Paris?
Marylin Fitoussi has led the costume design across the show’s five seasons. Patricia Field, best known for her work on Sex and the City, consulted on the first two seasons; Fitoussi took full reins from season three, according to Fashionista’s 2023 profile.
Fitoussi’s approach favors eclecticism over restraint: color, pattern mixing and combinations that are meant to be noticed. In a 2021 Netflix interview, she summed up the philosophy: “Too much good taste is boring.” The clothes are designed to give the character a distinctive visual presence, rather than to pass as everyday street style.
How do the costumes change across the seasons?
| Season or period | Character and setting | What changes in the wardrobe |
|---|---|---|
| Seasons 1–2 | Emily arrives in Paris and develops her place there. | Bold, recognizable looks establish the show’s fashion-fantasy tone. Netflix recalls the bucket hat and sculptural flower dress from season one; season two pushes the eclecticism further. Fitoussi said the clothes invited viewers to combine polka dots, stripes and colors without limiting themselves. |
| Season 3 onward | Fitoussi leads the costume work without Field’s consulting role. | The central design sensibility remains expressive, with Fitoussi in full creative control. |
| Season 4 | Emily appears more mature and stylistically elevated. | Fitoussi told Vogue Italia the season continued earlier cinematic references. Suits, trousers and chunky loafers feature among the silhouettes described in the interview. |
| Season 5 | Emily’s life in Italy is more settled, and the setting brings new cultural references. | The wardrobe shifts toward suits, jumpsuits, trousers, shorts and flats. A sleek bob changes the proportions of the looks. Fitoussi links the direction to Italian cinema and actresses including Sophia Loren, Silvana Mangano, Anna Magnani and Claudia Cardinale; Vogue also notes references to Juliette Gréco, Capucine and Anita Pallenberg. |
Netflix’s season-five interview with Fitoussi describes Emily as more relaxed and sensual as she settles into life in Italy. The shift is not simply a move from one city’s “rules” to another’s: the clothes reflect a character in a different stage of life, filtered through the show’s deliberately heightened style.
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What inspired Emily in Paris costumes?
The costumes draw on cinema and fashion history, but they also work as a visual measure of Emily’s changing confidence. In the early seasons, conspicuous hats, strong color and print mixing make her stand out. Later, more structured pieces and different proportions suggest a more composed character without erasing the series’ appetite for bold combinations.
For season five, Fitoussi specifically connected the Italian setting with Italian cinema. Her references to actresses such as Sophia Loren and Anna Magnani offer a cinematic point of departure, rather than evidence that Emily is dressed to reproduce a single historical wardrobe. Fitoussi told Netflix Tudum, “I hope this show can encourage girls to express themselves and not hide themselves.”
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How do the costumes combine designer, vintage and accessible clothes?
Fitoussi described a mixed sourcing approach in Netflix’s 2021 interview: couture, young designers, vintage and accessible retail could all appear together. She also said she had been pushing upcycling and recycling, preferred not to buy new unless time made it necessary, and liked vintage shops. These are her descriptions of her approach at that time, not a measured audit of every costume or a percentage of reused garments.
Vogue Italia likewise describes a blend of luxury, emerging labels, vintage and pieces from Fitoussi’s own archive. The mix helps explain why the wardrobe cannot be reduced to a single price point or a list of luxury brands. It is also why a screen look may not translate into a straightforward shopping checklist.
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How can you dress like Emily in Paris?
Use the show as a prompt for personal styling rather than a prescription to copy every screen outfit. Fitoussi’s stated design approach supports experimentation with combinations; practical choices can keep that spirit wearable.
- Start with one statement: Pick a vivid color, unusual accessory or bold print as the anchor, then build around it.
- Mix patterns deliberately: Try stripes with polka dots, as Fitoussi referenced, while keeping one color or scale in common to make the combination feel connected.
- Change the silhouette: Tailoring, trousers and flats can create a more relaxed, polished effect than a head-to-toe costume-like look.
- Mix sources: Combine vintage or secondhand finds with pieces you already own; the show’s described wardrobe approach includes more than couture alone.
- Choose for your own setting: Emily’s looks are designed for a fictional character and a heightened series, not as a general standard for Parisian or Italian dress.
Where can you learn more about the costume process?
Fitoussi’s book Emily in Paris: The Fashion Guide, identified by both Netflix Tudum and Vogue (which names Assouline as publisher), is a direct route to more of the designer’s perspective. It should be understood as a fashion guide, not assumed to be a complete catalog of every purchasable screen-worn item.
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Rank #4
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